Zadar, Croatia: Portrait of an Ancient City with a Modern Soul

This is the first part of my solo travel series on the Zadar region, Croatia. Click here to read part 2 – One Day, Three Ways in Zadar.

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Zadar introduces itself from the air with views that are pure, unadulterated drama. Clusters of clouds hover over islands in the archipelago, testifying to the beauty of Croatia’s Dalmatian coast.

The allure of the cityscape continues on terra firma. From Bath to Bangkok via Keta, I’m not one to miss taking in a new place from the top. Zadar is no different. The best way to get a handle on it from the top? Head to the bell tower of St Anastasia’s Cathedral. 180 steps later, views stretch out over the city and out to sea.

Terracotta-coloured roofs drenched in sunlight sit like hats on the orthogonal architecture of the buildings. The city of Zadar looks out to the shimmering Adriatic sea with plains dotting the horizon. These are reminders of the abundant gifts of nature in this region. Being here brings you in proximity to a choice of national parks which include Plitvice, Paklenica, Krka, Kornati and Telaščica.

A guided tour with one of Croatia’s best

“Zadar makes an epic introduction,” I say to Ivana Dundović, a Zadar native, art historian and award-winning tour guide. Ivana had taken the time to read yours truly’s blog, Wonders of Wanders, and knew I would probably like an off-the-beaten-path experience. This is how my tour of the walled Old Town begins inside the well-preserved 11th century Sveti Lovre (St Lawrence Church) located in the main city square.

Small but architecturally detailed, the church is at the back of the happening Kavana Lovre café bar.

A recurring facet of Zadar’s personality is its ability to reconcile the past with modern pleasures.

A sunny Saturday is unfolding in the historical square at the centre of public life. Light winds stir the flaps of canopies in tandem with the pulse of activities. The clientele of Kavana Lovre, a mixture of locals and tourists, fill half of the square. This is the perfect place to soak up the vibes of the city and people-watch over a light meal, kava (coffee) or Croatian wine.

Speaking of coffee…

First thing, mid-morning, after lunch, evening, wherever, whenever…it’s always coffee time in Croatia.

And if you just want coffee to go as a local? “That would earn you a look!” laughs Ivana, pointing out the cosy spot where she gets her daily macchiato.

A song by Osibisa, the Afro rock band from Ghana, pops into my head. “They’ve got an awful lot of coffee in Brazil…” they sang. I sense Croatia will hold its own against Brazil with a thriving café culture that is obvious even to a first time visitor like me.

Coffee in Croatia is where everything gets done. It’s where friends meet, where deals are made, it’s how favours are asked, it’s how people are hired, fired, introduced, married, divorced, everything. Everything involves coffee.

Zablogreb

Croatia at the 2018 World Cup

Walking by an array of fresh local produce in the farmers’ market, we drift to the country’s exploits at the 2018 World Cup. With some players in the Croatian national team from Zadar, including captain, Luka Modrić, homecoming celebrations honoured their history-making tournament.

As a Ghanaian, I am still not over Luis Suarez’s “hand of God” moment during the 2010 World Cup quarter final in South Africa which denied Ghana a historic slot in the semi-finals. Life can be cruel – but we live on.

Nevertheless, I love listening to World Cup stories. Ivana’s pride in her country is palpable as she recalls the spectacle during the 2018 World Cup. So moving to hear, I get goosebumps and well up a little. It is pride that adds an extra layer of warmth to an already excellent tour.

Local ambassadors make all the difference.

In the shadow of ancient footsteps

Nowhere encapsulates Zadar’s ancient past better than the Roman Forum, the crumbling remnants of the public square completed in the 3rd century AD.

Encircling The Forum are a number of architectural giants. There is the 9^th century Byzantine Church of St Donatus. This church, which symbolises Zadar, stands out proud and imperious with its imposing rotundity. Today, it is for musical performances as the circular shape lends itself to fantastic acoustic features.

Next to St Donatus Church is the bell tower of St Anastasia’s Cathedral. Facing these are the Archaeological Museum and St Mary’s Church, dating back to the 11th century. Benedictine nuns are the guardians of rich artefacts in the Treasury next door. On a tip off from Ivana, I pay a visit later and discover a fascinating collection of reliquaries and religious paintings. For an even more enriching experience, don’t miss an opportunity to learn about the Benedictine way of life from the nuns during your visit. (I’ll save a trip to Google for the non-cognoscenti like me: reliquaries hold the body parts of various saints).

More heritage assets reveal themselves in Baroque architecture and Venetian grandeur. City walls and gates, fortified in response to the bellicose threat of Ottoman Turkey, are on the UNESCO World Heritage list. A garden blooms atop the nearby Renaissance Bastion, offering scenic opportunities for respite and photos. As if on cue, a newly married couple go by to smiles from onlookers.

Wanders in the car-free Old Town

Luminous marble alleyways make wandering a delight in the pedestrianised core that is the Old Town. Set off on an early morning photo walk and you may even have it mostly to yourself.

Filled with bars, museums, shops and alfresco dining options, the Old Town hums with Mediterranean bonhomie. A konoba, I learn, is one of the best places to experience Dalmatian cuisine. They are usually small, intimate restaurants serving homemade food without too much fanfare. A handy tip for fellow foodies out there.

Flavour stop: Charming Pet Bunara dishes up a mixture of seasonal traditional and daily specials. Try the sea bass; you may experience love at first bite.

Balancing tradition with modernity

Zadar is not all ancient history and heritage; it is also a city of modern intricacies.

The soundtrack to the waterfront promenade in Zadar is the one-of-a-kind Sea Organ which plays according to the undulations and pressures of the sea. Part installation, part music, an unpredictable concert emanates from the pipes fitted under the stone steps which lead into the water.

The Greeting to the Sun light installation is along the same promenade as a representation of the solar system. The solar panels collect the sun’s rays by day. By night, they release in a burst of psychedelic colours as a tribute to the city’s famous sunsets. Both art pieces are by Croatian architect, Nikola Bašić, and they testify to Zadar’s modern creative energy.

Locals, lovers, families and tourists flock to the waterfront in a riot of good vibes. The air is thick with promise as we assemble for the painting in the sky at sunset.

I claim a spot early as a keen sunset chaser and enjoy the atmosphere. An elderly Croatian couple walk over and chat with me for a short while. “You’re welcome here. Come back again!” they say, smiling on parting.

Come back to this cultural triple treat of sights, sounds and history. I’ve already voted YES with my feet.

Hvala, Zadar. Thank you. I certainly will come back.

With thanks to Nina Štohera Marnika from Zadar Region Tourist Board, and Ivana Dundović for the complimentary guided tour of Zadar. Ivana is a licensed tour guide for the counties of Zadar, Šibenik and Split in Croatia. Click here to find out more. Views in this post are my own.

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