Kefalonia is graced with awe-inspiring landscapes, from undulating hills covered with pines and plunging cliffs, to enchanting seas and every colour that nature can produce. This is the story of the adventure I DIDN’T sign up for, but needed to experience on this slice of rugged island beauty in Greece.
I’ve never driven abroad, mostly because of the small matter of being scared of the unknown. However, Kefalonia is about to change all that as the will to discover becomes greater than the fear of Just. Going. For. It. More accurately, the decision is taken out of my hand when I realise I’ve booked my flights without knowing the island is best explored by car. Okay, but surely I can manage by public transport right? Right? Turns out if you like exploring, public transport may be an expensive nightmare.
I check into a tastefully furnished studio on the upper floor of a house in the south western corner of the island. It’s quiet except for the occasional plane, and is steps from a beach I have to myself the evening I stop by for a sunset swim. It suits the kind of alone time I want. My host, Yiannis, drives me into town to rent a car.
I’m eating a beef stifado in the resort town of Lassi when Giorgios, the rental owner, delivers my little blue Matiz. It looks like I’m taking to the wheel and living “Davida” loca. So, belly lined and car at hand, I hop in and set off to discover some of the wonders of this wander.
Joining me?
Myrtos Beach
Up the mountains come arresting views over Myrtos Beach. Ethereal in hypnotising shades of blue against a pebble-line arc, it is surrounded by dramatic cliffs, and easily the most beautiful beach I’ve yet seen. No wonder it’s one of the world’s most photographed.
Melissani Cave Lake
The underground cave lake Melissani is a geological phenomenon of stalactites and stalagmites. I get there around noon when the sun is breaking through the collapsed roof, illuminating the electric colours of the lake in a uniquely enchanting way.
You’ll likely spend longer in the queue than on the lake. The boat tour whisks you off and back faster than you can collect change for the 7 euro entrance fee. But it’s definitely worth it – and who doesn’t like pulling faces with jolly guides?
Assos Village
Photogenic Assos seems to move at two paces – slow and slower still. Pastel-coloured houses dot the scenery and walls are festooned with flowers and brightly painted doors.
The small village is dominated at the peak by the ruins of a 15th century Venetian fortress. I attempt the uphill walk to the top, but quit mid-climb because I’m hungry and headache-y. So, down I go, almost skipping at the prospect of lunch and slurping ice cream by the small beach. This is something I’m increasingly loving about solo travel – the freedom to make decisions that work for me in the moment.
Solo travel gives you the opportunity to do things at your own pace.
The kind owner of the taverna charges my phone for me while I lunch. “Where are you from, pretty lady?” I tell him and he smiles. “You’ve come from far.” I chuckle. Yup.
I’m just a Ghana girl with a passion for discovery, trying to live the travel stories I love to (re)tell.
Agia Effimia Village
The sedate seaside village on the east coast has something of a French Riviera feel, I think to myself. I’m not surprised to learn later that French architects were indeed called on to help rebuild it after the island suffered an earthquake in 1953.
Driving on the island…
I love driving here. I get lost several times under the exasperated instructions of my Google map, even when it leads me down the wrong end of a one-way street. Go figure. Whether powering up steep hills or rolling down hairpin bends, it is a joy ride in the little blue Matiz. From mountain roads and narrow lanes with more tortuous bends than Mario Kart to goats on the road, the drive is often not for the faint of heart. But is it fun, freeing and exhilarating? You bet.
Sadly, there isn’t enough time to see it all. Kefalonia is the largest of the Ionian islands, after all. There are places I miss out on, like Fiskardo, Skala and Lixouri. I have a great excuse to go back though.
Back in the capital, Argostoli, I spend my last morning pottering around the harbour, hoping to spot a sea turtle. I smile at a fisherman and he hands me fresh fish. I chuck it in and…there it is.
Finally, I drive to the airport where I’m due to hand the car back to Giorgios.
What’s on the other side of that positive thing you fear?
I am recharged from a rejuvenating alone time, and renewed appreciation in the artistry of creation; all wrapped in beautiful memories, precious travel “firsts” and lessons in facing my fears. Oh, and the faint smell of fish still on my fingers as the plane takes off.
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Thank you for sharing. I love your detail and you honesty particularly around the fact that you had bought flight tickets then realised you had to drive there.
Thanks for reading, Ade! Yes, that was an uncomfortable realisation, but exactly what I needed to get out of the mental block I had about driving abroad 😬🙌🏾. The result was so freeing.
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