Cruising the Rhine river with AmaWaterways is a standout experience that takes in historic towns, castles, sloping vineyards and dramatic swathes of landscapes. Discover the highlights of a luxury voyage from Basel through the Rhine Valley and up to the canals of Amsterdam.
Entry to Basel is a comical case of Jenny-come-lately.
“Where are you going – Switzerland or France?” A French border guard asks. Am I not in Switzerland already?
“I’m…just trying to get out of the airport,” I say slowly.
He grins.
Basel EuroAirport, I learn quickly, is an airport at the confluence of three countries: Germany, France and Switzerland. With this in mind, I enter the “right” country. A short taxi ride to the cruise port leaves a small dent in my purse. Ah…the infamous Switzerland pocket pinch.
WoW Contents At A Glance
AmaKristina River Cruise Ship
AmaWaterways is known for its luxurious vessels, with well-appointed staterooms, included excursions, excellent crew and amenities. AmaKristina certainly doesn’t disappoint.
Safely ensconced in my cabin, I note some details in the tastefully furnished stateroom with delight. A 27-inch iMAC with movies on demand. A sitting area. Pristine marble bathroom with multi-jet shower heads, bath and body products and a cosy bathrobe. The best feature in the stateroom is the French and outside balcony which afford vistas of the ever-changing scenery.
AmaKristina reveals other winning elements. There are inviting public spaces, a heated pool with swim-up bar, fitness centre, spa and hair salon. I am in the lap of luxury and it will do me just fine for a week’s adventure along the enchanting Rhine. A low rumble in my belly announces hunger as I head to the lounge for some artfully plated nibbles.
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Later that evening, I doll up for a convivial cocktail party. This is a preliminary to the daily “Sip & Sail” Cocktail Hour. Cruise manager, Radi, and crew members welcome us enthusiastically aboard.
Guests are mostly elderly retirees, speckled with some relatively younger people, including Yours Truly. A few are on their second or third time of cruising the Rhine with AmaWaterways. They’re a friendly bunch. Over the course of the week, we swap stories, share dances and embark on some excursions together.
Dinner on the first night is at the Captain’s Table Restaurant. It’s a wonderful affair of a seven-course tasting menu, paired with regional wines. Complimentary flowing drinks add a veritable case of feeling fine and drinking wine on the Rhine as AmaKristina glides out of Basel. Sip, sip hooray!
The Rhine River
The Rhine is one of Europe’s most important waterways. It traverses and borders Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria, Germany, France and the Netherlands. Four main sections make it up: The High, Upper, Middle and Lower Rhine.
In a few days’ time, cruising through the Rhine Valley will prove to be a particular highlight. For now, we tuck into dinner as the attentive staff hover by, ready to make the experience as memorable as possible.
Over the course of the week, executive chef, Vlatko Limic, and Maitre D’, Gusti I Ketut, and teams, will go to great lengths to accommodate different dietary requirements and palates of guests. Stuffed plantain with spinach and pistachio on one instance has this Ghanaian smiling.
Sated after a heady embarkation day, I fall into bed, ready for a week of cruising the Rhine with AmaWaterways.
Revelling in Riquewihr
The next morning we dock in Breisach, situated on the German side of the Rhine and directly facing the Alsatian region in France. Of the included excursions – a hike through the mystical Black Forest (Germany), Freiburg walking tour (Germany), Breisach bike tour (Germany) and Riquewihr (France) – I go the French way.
The village of Riquewihr is located 12km north-west of Colmar in the heart of the Alsace region. Surrounded by vineyards, mountains and the Black Forest, Riquewihr is officially one of France’s most beautiful villages.
A walk through Riquewihr’s cobbled streets reveals a mix of ice-cream coloured buildings. This evokes the fairytale setting that inspired its famous appearance in Disney’s Beauty and the Beast film. Riquewihr largely escaped damage despite being in a region with a turbulent past. The result feels like walking through seemingly unchanged moments in time.
Charming streets are awash with half-timbered buildings, fine houses, courtyards and fountains, many of which date back to the 16th and 17th centuries. It is a joy to get lost in some places – and Riquewihr is one of them. A wander here is in itself a highlight of any visit, as much as sitting down with a drink and watching the world go by.
Strolling in Strasbourg
A full day in Strasbourg starts early the next morning. As the capital of the Alsace region, Strasbourg takes centre stage with flavours of Franco-German culture. This is a result of intermittent change of hands between Germany and France throughout history. The Alsace region is historically a German-dialect speaking region, but most Alsatians speak French.
Even without the benefit of historical context, this dexterity struck me on my first visit more than a decade ago as a bright-eyed “Parisienne” of the revolving door nature. I must say the city’s sights weren’t high on my list of priorities then.
I pay attention to Strasbourg’s main draws this time round, from the ancient heart of the city to Petite-France, a district with shops, bistros, half-timbered houses and a waterfront promenade. The spire of the venerable pink sandstone Cathedral Notre Dame is a guiding landmark throughout the city. Inside the cathedral, the famous astronomical clock keeps perfect time at over 400 years old.
Did you know?
Johannes Gutenberg invented the printing press in Strasbourg.
The French national anthem, La Marseillaise, was composed in Strasbourg. It was known then as the “The Marching Song of the Rhine Army”.
The first McDonald’s in France opened in Strasbourg.
Buildings in Strasbourg were once painted a certain colour based on the occupation of their owners – example, yellow for bakers and blue for carpenters.
Ultimately, Strasbourg is perfect for those who want to make the most of the ship’s longer stay in port. However, I end my wanders early and return to the warmth of AmaKristina. An experience of cruising the Rhine with AmaWaterways is the freedom to tailor-make my day.
Biking in Ludwisgshafen
Seeing as I’m energised by a hearty breakfast the next morning, my most challenging activity calls. What is it, you ask? A 34km/21 mile bike tour from Ludwigshafen to Ladenburg.
I could wax lyrical about the change in scenery, from urban cityscape through the tranquil greens along the river, to beholding the picture book charm of Ladenburg over a steaming cup of hot chocolate. However, the bike tour is soon overshadowed by punishing rain showers.
As a result, I return to AmaKristina shivering from the wet encounter with Mother Nature. Those hot showers in the bathroom were a girl’s warming best friend! In other words, you couldn’t convince me to venture out for love or money. Sometimes the biggest coup is to just slip under the covers and sleep the rest of the afternoon away.
Coffee with a Kick in Rüdesheim
We moor in the charming wine town of Rüdesheim later that evening. The small town is home of the famous “Riesling” wine. Sloping vineyards, riverside houses and quirky shops set the scene.
A short burst of rain has just stopped when we arrive in the atmospheric centre. The evening lights glint in a playful dance across the cobble paths. Music permeates the air from music machines at the nearby Siegfried’s Mechanical Musical Cabinet Museum.
Bars, cafes, restaurants and souvenir shops jostle tightly together in the tiny street of Drösselgasse. We stop here for the famous Rüdesheimer coffee, a delicious concoction of flamed Asbach brandy and coffee topped with sweet whipped cream and grated chocolate. The warming drink is perfect for the creeping chill in the air.
Our exploration continues the next morning with a ride on the cable chairlift. A cable car ride is a highlight of visits to Rüdesheim. Views from the top are some of my favourite ways to take in a new place (see also: Zadar and Keta). Throw in the Rhine river, green isles and sloping vineyards, and what do you get? A happy wanderer on a special experience.
Afterwards, I indulge my taste buds with a sampling of Riesling wines, washed down with a taste of ice wine.
“Drinking ice wine is like having an angel piss in your mouth.”
Vintner in Rüdesheim
By the time we bid goodbye, it is tempting to take back some liquid souvenirs.
Cruising the Scenic Rhine Gorge
A frisson of excitement is palpable that afternoon as AmaKristina approaches the Rhine Gorge. This is a 65-kilometre stretch of the river Rhine between Koblenz and Bingen. Listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2002, the Rhine Gorge is a highlight of any Rhine cruise.
More than 40 castles and fortresses dot the cliffs over the Rhine Gorge, along with churches, spires and riverside vineyards. I retreat to my private balcony to enjoy the views. There is commentary from Radi on some of the best sights and historical contexts. This includes the legend of Lorelei, a golden-haired maiden who lured sailors to their deaths with her beautiful singing voice.
Calling into Cologne
Cologne calls and we answer with a stop here on a happening Saturday afternoon. Known in German as Köln, Cologne is Germany’s fourth largest city, with a “Live and Let Live” motto peeking through its multicultural population.
At the centre of the city, the imposing Gothic cathedral dominates the skyline. The cathedral was the tallest building in Europe until the construction of the Eiffel Tower. Moreover, it was an important religious site during the Roman Empire and is reputed to house the relics of the three Magi.
The city is the original home of Eau de Cologne, the new fragrance – or “scentsation” if you will – created at the beginning of the 18th century by Italian expatriate, Johann Maria Farina, and named after his new residence, Cologne.
Be that as it may, a different kind of scent hits me courtesy of Joseph, a Cologne local: freshly fried churros. The Spanish-style doughnut is lathered in a generous serving of melted chocolate. It’s the stuff of sweet street food snacking as we take in Cologne’s urban energy away from the usual hot spots.
WoW Tip: Most visitors to Cologne have the cathedral, chocolate museum and old town at the top of their must-visit list. For something different, head to Rudolfplatz, an off-the-beaten path area known for the Hahnentor, one of the original gates along the 12th century city walls. In addition, there are street food markets and antiques stalls, coupled with Cologne’s only LGBT Christmas market.
Disembarkation in Amsterdam
They call Amsterdam the “Venice of the North.” With its captivating mix of history, architecture and network of canals, it’s easy to see why. After missing out on them during my first visit, Amsterdam’s famous canals await on a scenic boat tour this time round. The labyrinthine network of canals wrap around the city, giving home to over 2500 houseboats.
Flower-lined streets announce vibrant neighbourhoods with hip bars, gourmet restaurants, art galleries and specialty shops. Eventually, torrential rain takes over what should be the “swan song” of our river cruise. I smile ruefully when the elements bring a wet curtain call to proceedings. It’s a somewhat somber end to a time of utter indulgence.
We pack castles, vineyards, medieval towns, pastoral villages and more into our week of cruising the Rhine with AmaWaterways. Whether it is discovering the colourful charms of Riquewihr, exploring an alternative side to Cologne or sipping regional wines as we glide along the UNESCO-listed gorge, time on the Rhine is full of memorably delightful wanders.
Disclaimer: I travelled as a guest of Backroads Travel. For more details on cruising the Rhine with AmaWaterways, take a look here. All thoughts and opinions expressed in this post are my own.
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